New Year’s in Emilia-Romagna

17 Feb

Emilia-Romagna is located in Northern Italy and is known for both food and automobiles.  The area is home to Ferrari and Lamborghini, Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, and Parma’s prosciutto.  The region is also notable for pasta dishes like tortellini, lasagne, tagliatelle, and the Bolognese sauce.

IMG_0224We rented a car in Rome and decided to take the scenic way up the Adriatic coast.  Our first stop was in L’Aquila, which is surrounded by the Apennine Mountains in Central Italy.  This town is still recovering from a deadly earthquake that took place in 2009.  The picture to the right shows a building that still has scaffoulding in place during restoration.

IMG_0869After stopping for a quick cappuccino at the local bar we drove on towards Rimini, which is one the most famous seaside resort in Europe founded in 268 BC.  It was an important Roman transportation route given its located between to rivers.  As you can see, it was a bit foggy the day we were there.  I would highly recommend eating at Osteria de Borg.

After lunch, we drove on to the small country of San Marino.  If you didn’t know it existed, you are not alone.  This small country was very festive for the holidays and hIMG_0880ad one of the most beautiful views.  This is actually fog, not the ocean in the picture.  You drive up so far that you drive out of the fog.

We were finally on our way to our final destination for the day.  The city of Ravenna.  This city is located on the coast and is famous for the collection of well-preserved mosaics.  In fact, Ravenna’s early Christian churches and mosaics have been collectively designated a World Heritage Site.

The Basilica of San Vitale is said to be the inspiration for the famous Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey.  Additionally, Ravenna is home to The Tomb of Dante Alighieri, author of the Divine Comedy.  We spent a total of two night and one full day, which is really all I would suggest.  

Next up, we were off to Ferrara which has also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  You can tell right away this city was the center of the Italian Renaissance in the 15th and 16th centuries.  As with every Italian city, there is a specific culinary style that IMG_0542includes cappellacci di zucca, the traditional Christmas dish called cappelletti, a small meat-filled ravioli served in chicken broth, and pasticcio di maccheroni, a domed macaroni pie, consisting of a crust of sweet dough enclosing macaroni in a Béchamel sauce, topped with porcini mushrooms and ragù bolognese.

After lunch in Ferrara, we headed to our agriturismo.  The was possibly one of the best places I have had the opportunity to stay.  It was secluded, cozy with a fireplace in every room, an amazing owner/chef.  Due Papaveri was the perfect place to spend New Year’s Eve.  We had fabulous food both morning and night,  made by the owner Charlotte and her boyfriend Luca.  We took a pasta making class, where we learned the traditional dishes of the region.  Charlotte set up tours of a Parmigiano Reggiano factory, where they sell 90 month aged cheese that is the best thing I’ve ever eaten.  Additionally, Charlotte set up a tour from an adorable woman, whose family has sold balsamic vinegar for over a hundred years.  For New Year’s Eve we had a spectular seven course meal and brought in the new year with traditions from America, Denmark, Canada, Spain, and Italy.

Our last stop with the Bologna, which was one of my favorite in Italy.  Home of the University of Bologna, this city was bustling with people and had tons of shops and restuarants.  I wish we had gotten to spend more time here, but we only were able to stay for lunch.  Given that  it was New Years Day, everything was closed up.  However, we managed to find a restaurant where I finally was able to try the famous lasagna from this region.

Christmas in Rome, Italy

15 Feb

This Christmas I was fortunate enough to visit my brother and sister-in-law in Rome, Italy.  My sister-in-law was awarded the Rome Prize this year, which means they had the opportunity to live at the American Academy of Rome for a year.  This is a spectacular villa located in the neighborhood of Trastevere, up on a hill overlooking all of Rome.  This villa, called The Villa Aurelia, was originally built around 1650 for Cardinal Girolamo Farnese.  The rest of the family stayed in an awesome Airbnb, located right outside the city walls.  Airbnb’s are really the cheapest, best option when traveling abroad, especially with larger groups.

Rome at Christmas can be chilly but is a great time to visit because there a fewer crowds at all the main sites.  One thing to be prepared for, which is always something to consider in Rome, is their holidays.  The shops and museums will generally be open with the exception of Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, the day after Christmas (Santo Stefano), New Years’ Day, and the Epiphany on January 6th.  On Christmas Eve many Roman families are at home enjoying their Feast of the Seven Seas rather than going out.  The Feast of the Seven Seas is a Roman Catholic tradition and in Rome, typically includes eel, anchovies, mussels, and other seafood.  We actually stopped off to pick up our own Christmas Eve fish dinner at the local Prati market.

Prati is a great neighborhood, which borders the Vatican City.  This would be a great place to stay in Rome because it’s a little outside of the city center and much less touristy. Christmas Day you should definitely book restaurants reservations for Christmas lunch beforehand because Romans traditionally go out for a big meal in the afternoon.

Some fun things to do in Rome leading up to Christmas include visiting the Vatican Museum, St. Peters Square on Christmas Day at noon where the Pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi speech, going to Piazza Navona (although the Christmas market was canceled this year),  and watch the symphony at Rome’s Auditorium,  where there is also a Christmas village and ice skating rink set up for the holiday season.  On the day after Christmas, called Santo Stefano, make sure to go to visit various churches to see the presepio, which are nativity scenes.  While the presepio are up all of December, on this day the baby Jesus is unveiled for the first time.

Now let’s talk food.  There’s nothing better than the food in Italy.  Traditional Roman pasta dishes include spaghetti cacio e pepe at Osteria del Sostengo, bucatini all’amatriciana at La Torricella, and spaghetti all carbonara at Antico Arco.

Aside from pasta, other notable food includes carciofi (either prepared Roman-style which is steamed or Jewish-style which is fried), puntarelle (bitter greens), and trippa all romana (tripe).

Other restaurant recommendations include Pianostrada for amazing sandwiches, Trapizzino for sandwiches and suppli, La Piazzetta for pizza and suppli, and Antica Birreria Peroni.

 

Greece: Athens, Mykonos, Delos, and Santorini

26 Aug

I traveled to Greece during the same trip as Turkey. These are actually two countries to easily combined into one trip. Lots of people doing the Greek Islands and Turkey go down to Ephesus and take a cruise ship or ferry over to the islands. Since I only went to Istanbul, I flew from Istanbul to Athens. Most people I had talked to about traveling to Greece say you barely need a day in Athens because you’ll hate it. I, however, really enjoyed Athens and was bummed not to have spent more than a day there.  To begin, it’s exhausting to try and see everything in one day.  Secondly, there is also a great vibe in the city of Athens.  There are cafes and people everywhere.  The city only begins to get crowded around 9pm, so having dinner at 11pm is completely acceptable.  I would suggest at least spending several days there if you don’t mind crowds and enjoy touring cities.

The Acropolis, especially at night, is absolutely stunning and the Parthenon is everything you expect and more.  IMG_1411To see these sites in person is surreal.  We spent about two hours walking around the IMG_0396Acropolis before walking to the new (although now it’s five years old) Acropolis Museum.  This museum was designed amazingly.  When you walk up to the entrance the walkways are glass so you are able to see below into the city ruins.  The top level of the museum was built to mimic the Parthenon and shows what it would have looked like during it’s time.  Next we went to the Ancient City of Athens but sadly due to the crisis it was closing at 3pm instead of it’s regular time.  I wish we would have been able to spend more time exploring.   We just got to the Temple of Hephaistos before we were kicked out.  This is one of the best preserved temples of its time.03270008

The shopping around the Acropolis and on the main shopping street consists of both what you expect to see in a touristy area and also some really need craft shops.  I bought a tapas platter made of olive wood thinking it was probably way over priced only to find it was actually a great deal compared to shopping on the islands.  We then ate of first Greek salad of the trip, which I would then proceed to have as an appetizer for every meal.  The food in Greece is spectacular.  Everything is amazingly fresh and feels so healthy.

IMG_1472To get to the islands, we took the subway (almost $35 Euros cheaper than a taxi and avoids the massive traffic jams) to the airport and took a 20 minute flight to Mykonos.  If you can afford it, the way to stay on the Greek Island is nice family owned hotels.  I was less impressed with Mykonos than I thought I would be, especially since at one point we were shooed out of a store because we didn’t look wealthy enough!   My Mom did flip him off on the way back home later that night, so either we got our revenge or looked even more trashy than before.  At least it made us feel better!  The islands are definitely pricey and it seemed as though the people were much less friendly.

Struggling to find activities, I decided we should try to catch a ferry to the island of Delos.  What a great idea.  Delos is about 30 minutes by ferry and is an ancient Greek and Roman city began around 3,000 years ago and IMG_1543seized to exist after around 1st century B.C.  The islands has amazing mosaic floors, temple ruins, and the HUGE base for a HUGE statute of Apollo.  You also can hike up to the highest point and see all sides of the island.  This is really worth the trip.

We then took a ferry to the island of Santorini.  I LOVE THIS ISLAND.  There is so much to do on this island and it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen with my own eyes.  We stayed at the Artemis Villas in Imerovigli.  This is a great location because you are walking IMG_0547distance (30 minutes) from Fira, the main town, and it’s a little more secluded.  The hotel had amazing views of the volcano and ocean, which made for breathtaking sunsets.  At sunset each night they provided you a treat.  The first night was cake and champagne, so you really might be in heaven.  I rented a car on the island because it’s big enough you’ll need one to get around.  First we visited the Ancient City of Thera.  My mom and I followed directions and parked our car at the bottom of a giant mountain.  The road (we thought) implied we couldn’t drive up the mountain and we saw some people hiking.  So we began the trek up this VERY steep mountain, the whole time going how do so many people manage this.  Well turns out as most things in Greece, of course you can drive to the top!!!  These are worth seeing and the hike is grueling but great exercise with ocean views the whole way.

Akrotiri is a must do.  These are ancient ruins from 2000 B.C. to 1500 B.C. that were buried under ash and pumiceIMG_1604 from a volcanic erruption.  It is an amazing sight and only show 1/30th of the orginal city.  The whoel site is under a new climate controlled building which is amazing in itself.  When we visited it had only been open 4 months.

Other fun things to do include wine tasting (we went to Gaia Winery located in an old tomato factory right on the ocean), beer tasting at the Santorini Brewery, hike from Oia to Fira (about 6 miles each way), catch an outdoor movie in English at the Kamari Open Air Cinema during the evening, and visit the caldera (the volcano).  If you visit the caldera, make sure to take the donkey ride back up to Fira from the dock.  It is a crazy experience.

Food, the most important.  Like I mentioned before, I had a Greek salad with every meal.  We also would eat by the water whenever possible and have fresh seafood.  In Oia (which is the fancier part of the island), it’s well worth taking the 300 stairs down to Amundi Bay to have dinner or lunch.  The restaurants both have an outdoor oven and freshly caught fish you can choose from.  Another restaurant that’s a must do in Santorini is Naoussa Tavern.  There’s no reservations and always a line but worth the wait.  Plus you can drink wine while you wait!

Overall, Greece is a must.  So much culture, history, and amazing food.  I can’t wait to go back.

Istanbul, Turkey

14 Aug

Istanbul is a spectacular city where the east and west collide.  This is evident through the food, the buildings, suchIMG_0168 as the Hagia Sophia, and quite literally in the geography where there is a European and Asian side of Istanbul.  Istanbul is fairly easy to navigate and the Turkish people are extremely friendly.

 

As I prefer to do almost anywhere I travel, I booked an Airbnb.com near the Galata Tower outside the Old City, which is much less touristy.  The first thing we did when we arrived was to walk up Istikal Caddesi (the main street) to Takism Square.  Along the way you can take in the Balik Pazar (the fish market), Nevizade Sokak (one of IMG_0068the busiest restaurant strips in the city), shop, drink a Efes Pilsen (local beer), and eat Baklava and Turkish delights.  This street is packed at almost all hours of the night.  It is a must do.

 

The must do sites are as follows:  Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, climb the Galata IMG_1152Tower to see a view of Istanbul, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Market (only the Iranian saffron and somuk are worth buying), Topkapi Palace (the best portion is the IMG_1261Harem, which I believe you have to pay extra to see but is worth it), shopping at Arasat Bazaar (nicer bazaar and easier to navigate), and Chora Church.

You must take ferry up the Bosphorus Strait to Anadola Kavagi to tour the ruins of Yoros Kalesi (kind of a hike uphill).  On the ferry ride you can get off in the towns along the way.  We ate fresh seafood in a town called Sariyer on the way back.  Also, you MUST get the yogurt the kids sell on the ferry.  Make sure to put the sugar in it!IMG_1122

 

Also, everyone needs to experience the Turkish Bath.  It was quite an exciting/uncomfortable/slightly terrifying experience.  We went to Cemberlitas IMG_1384Hamami.  You first choose what services you would like (such a body scrubs, massages, bubble bathing, etc), then you literally have no idea what is going on the rest of the time.  I was just taken from one place to another by yelling Turkish women, who were demanding me to remove my clothes, scrubbing me with a turkish exfoliating cloth, then an interesting bubbly cloth, then shooed me off to another room where I was lathered in oil and given a massage (while the ladies chatted to each other the whole time).  By the way did I mention there were many other naked women all around.  We literally laughed about this experience the rest of the trip.  It’s not a bad experience, just an interesting experience.

Now to the important part, what to eat!!!!  Some great restaurants include Furreya Fish, where you must get the fish roll,  Kasap Osam Doner where you should get the isketer doner, Otantik for manti (my fav) and a turkish IMG_1255pancake (then finish dinner with an ice cream cone from the place right outside), and Filibe Kofteisi to get the meatballs.  We also took a cooking class in Istanbul which was a highlight.  We learned how to make five dishes of ethnic Turkish food.  The classes are offered at Cooking Alaturk and reservations are a must.IMG_1365

And by the way, if you don’t like cats this city might not be for you:)

 

I’m Back!

11 Aug

One of my goals this summer was to get my blog up and running again. My life has taken lots of twists and turns since my last posts but I never stopped traveling, eating, and running! I will work to catch you up on the places I have been in the last couple years but also keep you current on my almost weekly travels. About a year and a half ago, after moving back home to Denver, CO, I took a job in Government Affairs for an oil and gas company. This job has allowed me to experience different areas around the U.S. and try many new restaurants along way!

Delicious Tandoori Chicken Wraps

1 Mar

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I recently was on vacation Jackson Hole, Wyoming visiting my aunt and uncle. We went to my aunt’s favorite store in town called Vom Fass. They sell delicious oils, vinegars, and spices. I decided to try tandoori powder. I then went to Pinterest to find a recipe built around my spice. I found an amazing recipe from a great blog called Mongolian Kitchen. I decided on these Tandoori Chicken Wraps. Now there are a lot of ingredients that go into this dish, but it’s definitely worth it.

Delicious grilled Tandoori Chicken Pieces wrapped in Roti’s.
Serves: 2
Ingredients

For the Chicken Marinade
1 tbsp greek yoghurt
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tsp paprika
½ tsp coriander powder
½ tsp cumin powder
1 tsp tandoori powder
½ tsp black pepper

For the Mango Chilli
2 tbsp mango chutney
½ tsp chilili powder
½ lime, juice
1 tbsp vegetable oil

Raita
3 tbsp Greek Yoghurt
½ whole cucumber grated
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp cumin powder
½ tsp dried mint leaves

Onion Salad
½ Red Onion
½ Lime Juice
1 small bunch of fresh coriander, chopped

Other ingredients
2 Chicken breasts sliced into strips
mixed pepper, cut into strips
1 Medium white onion, cut into strips
1 Pack of Roti’s or Fajitas to wrap
Fresh coriander for garnish

Instructions
Marinade the Chicken. In a bowl add all the marinade ingredients except the salt. Mix well and add the chicken. Leave to marinade for a few hours (the longer you leave it the better the taste)

Prepare the dips for the Raita first grate the cucumber, then squeeze to release the excess water. Pour this away. Then mix the rest of the Raita ingredients together. Raita is best kept in the fridge for a while to develop the taste.

For the Mango chutney mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl, taste and set aside when ready.

For the Onion Salad chop and mix all the ingredients together.

Cook the chicken.

Add the salt to the marinaded chicken and mix well. Use a skillet/Griddle pan for best results (even better a BBQ!). Heat your griddle pan till really hot and just smoking, then add the chicken strips. Allow to brown then begin turning (add a little oil if too dry). After 5 minutes move to one side and add the vegetables and cook along side. When cooked remove from the heat. If you have a sizzle plate pre-heated in the oven, then add a little of the hot mango chutney mix to this. Then add a layer of the vegetables. Then the chicken on top. This keeps everything warm while you are “wrapping”.

Thanksgiving in Del Mar, California

28 Nov

Del Mar holds a special place in my heart.  My grandparents would spend the winters, away from freezing Minnesota, in Del Mar.  Their condo was on the Morgan Run golf course in Rancho Santa Fe.  I have so many memories in this area of California.  It’s where I would go hunting for snails with Fred, the grounds keeper, where I chipped in a golf ball from 100 yards away right in front of my grandpa at the age of 7, and would eat fresh strawberries with angel food cake after every meal.  Lucky for us, my uncle ended up buying a beautiful house in Rancho Santa Fe after my grandma passed away, so we are still able to visit Del Mar at least once a year.

One of the best things about this area is the amazing seafood restaurants.  My favorite restaurant, George’s on the Cove, is located in La Jolla.  We always sit on the ocean terrace, order the mussels, and watch the sunset.   And if you visit La Jolla, make sure to walk down to the water and see all the seals.  I found this guy out sleeping on the beach. Don’t worry, he’s not dead.

As for the shopping, there’s plenty.  But, Solana Beach has an area known as Cedros Avenue which is a design district.  The two stores I make sure to hit every time I’m in California are Leaping Lotus and SoLo.